Apa prinsip finishing kimia kain sutra?

1. Weight Gain: Following the removal of sericin during degumming, silk typically experiences a weight loss of 20% to 50%. To compensate for this weight reduction, weight gain treatments are applied to the silk fabric. These treatments not only restore the lost weight but also enhance the fabric’s fullness, fluffiness, filling performance, drapability, and washability. There are three primary methods for achieving weight gain: plant-based treatment, mineral-based treatment, and polymer grafting. Among these, the polymer grafting method is considered the most advanced, as it simplifies the weight gain process significantly. This method primarily involves treating the silk fabric with methyl methacrylate and ammonium persulfate. During the weight gain process, the dyeing properties of the silk fabric can also be improved. However, there remains an open question regarding whether grafting treatment should occur before or after dyeing for optimal results. Selanjutnya, the industrial application of the grafting method requires further development. Currently, only a few manufacturers, such as those producing twisted yarn for silk neckties, utilize this technique.

2. Waterproof and Oil-repellent: The principle behind waterproof and oil-repellent treatments is to reduce the surface energy of the silk fabric in air, thereby preventing oil stains or oily contamination. Teflon is the most commonly used surface finishing agent for fabrics. Other important waterproofing agents include aluminum compounds, either used alone or in combination with soap or wax dissolving agents. When natural silk is grafted with hexafluoropropylene, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, or acrylonitrile vapors, its waterproof, oil-repellent, anti-mineral acid, and light stability properties are significantly enhanced.

3. Softness: To achieve long-lasting softness in silk fabrics, chemical softeners must be employed. Common persistent softeners include organic softeners and silicon-based softeners. These include oils, waxes, fats; cationic softeners such as imidazolines and ethoxylated fatty amines; anionic softeners such as stearic acid, palmitic acid, and sulfate or sulfonate derivatives of fatty alcohols or waxy polyethylene glycols; non-ionic softeners such as long-chain alcohols, acids, glycerol alcohols, oils, and waxy polyethylene glycols; and organic silicon emulsions such as polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydroxysiloxane, and amino silanes. Polyethylene emulsions are also utilized. The current trend favors the use of organic silicon epoxy derivatives, which provide the fabric with softness, anti-wrinkle properties, and resistance to yellowing.

4. Anti-static: Silk can be modified through grafting with specific monomers to enhance its static accumulation resistance, thereby reducing the amount of static electricity accumulated on the fabric. Anti-static treatments fall into two main categories: static eliminators, which improve the fabric’s moisture absorption capacity by treating the silk fabric with water-soluble vinyl monomers, depositing specific metal particles on the fabric, or applying a silver coating; and anti-static agents, which reduce friction between fibers and between fibers and metals using specific alkaline lubricants, such as metal oils and butyl stearates. Anti-wrinkling: Compared to synthetic fibers, silk has relatively poor ease-of-care properties. Therefore, it is essential to apply a crease recovery (CR) treatment to improve the dimensional stability and wrinkle recovery of silk after washing. Existing anti-wrinkling finishing agents include crosslinking agents, urea-formaldehyde pre-shrinking bodies for weight increase, dimethylol dihydroxyethylurea for enhancing dry and wet wrinkle recovery performance, organosilicon, acrylic softeners, and catalysts. Additionally, other anti-wrinkle agents that improve the dry and wet CR, tear strength, elasticity, and weight gain performance of silk fabrics include various N-hydroxymethyl derivatives of nitrogen-containing compounds.